While he never reveals his face throughout the documentary, Holzemeer films Margiela recreating some of his most iconic pieces. He stayed backstage, did almost no press—save for a few interviews conducted via fax—and eschewed fame and celebrity. It’s a decision that director Reiner Holzemer respected. Military socks became sweaters; wigs became coats; waistcoats were born from porcelain; even a plastic bag was repurposed into a top. This runway took place in a derelict playground in a neighbourhood on the outskirts of Paris. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, Who's Who in the 'Tiny Pretty Things' Cast. He submitted a request to someone who knew someone, and three or four months later, he got an email response from the designer himself. Over the course of nearly a year, Holzemer collected more than 200 hours of film, including images of Margiela’s studio, the designer’s hands flipping through sketches, clips of his fashion shows, and interviews with those who knew and admired him, including designer and mentor Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion icon Carine Roitfeld, and fashion critic Cathy Horyn. Where Can You Stream 'Wonder Woman 1984'? The documentary isn’t the first dedicated to the designer. Martin Margiela then tells his story chronologically: from the early days when he developed the label with Jenny Meirens in 1987, to the first show in a theatre in 1988 and the Spring/Summer 90 show that changed everything in fashion. That absence, though, may not be permanent. Directed by Reiner Holzemer, the documentary follows the rise of Margiela's namesake label, the ways in which the designer changed the landscape of fashion in … It was a way of building trust, though, which is one of the most important instruments in a documentarian’s toolkit. His anti-fashion fashion, oversized silhouettes, repurposed garments, and deconstructed outfits blazed a trail for designers—Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Jacquemus, and countless others—touching both couture and street wear. Martin Margiela in His Own Words (2019) – Reiner Holzemer’s latest documentary – opens with a pair of hands, deft and decisive, working with a discarded champagne cork. He has rarely been seen since making that bold decision, becoming the so-called “Banksy of fashion.”, So in an unprecedented but fitting move, Margiela keeps his face hidden in the film. “I had to be very, very patient,” says Holzemer. As someone who has both an obsession with films and a pair of Margiela Tabis at the very top of her ‘if I ever get rich I’m buying this’ list, I was very excited to see a documentary on the life and career of Martin Margiela on the program for this year’s digital Melbourne International Film Festival. The Beyonce Documentary Trailer Is Here, Meghan Markle Surprised an Old Friend in NYC, Designer Dossier: Martin Cooper of Belstaff, A Day In the Life of Celebrity MUA Daniel Martin, Laverne Cox to Host The T Word, a Documentary on Transgender Youth. "Nach dem Erfolg von 'Dries', meinem Porträt von Dries Van Noten, fiel es mir nicht leicht, einen weiteren Modedesigner für einen neuen Dokumentarfilm auszuwählen. As a collaborator, Margiela tells the story he wants people to remember. A new documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words is available today via virtual cinema. Despite being featured in glossies and having his name scrawled across the windows of his minimalist boutiques, the designer remains as much of an enigma as the white, wordless tags of his chic clothing. “It was always convincing, it was always a process,” says Holzemer. “I could not stop thinking about [Margiela], reading about him,” says Holzemer. [Margiela] said, ‘I want to talk about the fun part of the fashion world, to encourage young people to follow their own dreams.’”, The film is a retrospective on the creative’s life, and also a reminder of how influential Margiela’s work continues to be. He also has fondness for covering his models' faces in veils, opaque stocking-masks or elaborate hairstyles. Margiela balked, so Holzemer agreed to make a movie about the exhibition, even though he thought it would be “quite boring” to watch. Amazon Video. “It was very painful for him.” Holzemer believes Margiela is very happy to have it all behind him: “He wanted to make a positive documentary. He grew up in Genk, the son of a Polish-born hairdresser, and graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980. Oscilloscope Laboratories Martin Margiela has built an empire out of mystery, both in terms of his work as an iconoclastic fashion designer and his reclusive identity as an artist. T his fun, nerdy follow-up to Reiner Holzemer’s 2017 documentary about Dries Van Noten takes on another Belgian fashion designer, Martin Margiela. As Margiela describes the process, he makes turning a grocery bag into high fashion sound like the most natural idea in the world. Martin Margiela: In His Own Words On Demand Now. An exhibition on Margiela in Antwerp convinced the filmmaker of his next subject. For the first time, co-founder Jenny Meirens and the members of the creative team that stood at the heart of the house talk extensively about the creative processes and unique philosophies of the Maison. It balances me that I am like everybody else. Jetzt anschauen: Die besten Modefilme aller Zeiten – von "Der Teufel trägt Prada" bis "Blow Up"! In vollem Bewusstsein, dass es ziemlich unmöglich klang, diesen Mann vor die Kamera zu bekommen, stand der Name Martin Margiela ganz oben auf meiner Liste. “He wants to be able to go out in Paris for coffee in a café and no one will recognize him.”, After making a documentary on designer Dries van Noten, Holzemer knew he wanted to keep his cameras trained on the fashion world. In November 2019, director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary 'Martin Margiela: In His Own Words'. “To this day, he wants to be anonymous,” Holzemer tells Marie Claire in an interview from his home in Munich. 'The Queen’s Gambit': The True Story, Explained. At first, Margiela assumed the film would document his 2018 retrospective at Paris’s Palais Galliera, but Holzemer had a different idea: a portrait of a man who chose to disappear. Co-produced by Aminata and Holzemer (who had previously worked on a documentary by Dries Van Noten), it was called "the definitive study of this elusive, technically gifted designer " … We may earn commission from the links on this page. “I don’t like the idea of being a celebrity,” Martin Margiela says. Then, in 2009, at the height of his career, he left his namesake fashion house without publicly saying goodbye, slipping further into his preferred state of anonymity. DOCUMENTARY. Das ist deshalb so erstaunlich, weil Martin Margiela – gleichwohl er als Meister der Dekonstruktion einer der einflussreichsten Designer der vergangenen Jahrzehnte ist – eines der größten Mysterien der Modebranche ist und sein Gesicht kaum jemand kennt. Der Film enthält unter anderem Interviews mit Jean Paul Gaultier, der Trendforscherin Lidewij Edelkoort, der Modekritikerin Cathy Horyn und dem Modehistoriker Olivier Saillard. “Anonymity is very important to me. These hands, belonging to the Belgian fashion designer, are all we see of him, beyond an indistinct face glimpsed within a busy studio in the broad setting of old photographs. I did n… Martin Margiela, Director: Martin Margiela Fashion Show Spring Summer 2001. Sehen Sie exklusiv die Trailer-Premiere der Mode-Dokumentation "Martin Margiela: Mythos der Mode" bei VOGUE. His descriptions of radically imaginative pieces, from the Tabi boot with its divided toes to his beloved flat sleeveless jackets, flow across the film, barely giving the viewer time to recognize how revolutionary his looks were. One of the film’s most telling moments has Margiela recalling an art school project that led him to create a jacket from a tea towel—no cutting, no pattern, just a towel folded and stitched into clothing. Martin Margiela, who is known for his brilliantly eccentric design ethos, was always against publicly showing face. Alexander McQueen ganz privat: Diese Mode-Doku über Alexander McQueen zeigt ungesehene Aufnahmen des Modedesigners. Maison Martin Margiela (now, sans Martin, dubbed ‘Maison Margiela’) was and remains the lodestar when it comes to conceptual, avantgarde fashion and that legacy is owed to the genius of a single man and his incredible team. Reiner Holzemer, der bereits die erfolgreiche Mode-Dokumentation "Dries" über den Designer Dries Van Noten gedreht hat, widmet sich in seinem neuen Film einem Mythos der Modewelt: dem Designer Martin Margiela. Directed by Reiner Holzemer who also made Dries, the Dries Van Noten documentary, in 2017, Holzemeer gets Margiela to open up in a way that would be unfathomable before, from discussing his childhood to the idea of continuing his legacy. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela's exit." Er tut dies mit einer unglaublichen Bescheidenheit für einen Mann mit solcher Bekanntheit", sagt Produzent und Regisseur Reiner Holzemer. Editors handpick every product that we feature. Marie Claire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. Interlaced with his memories are videos of Margiela’s groundbreaking fashion shows—set in parking garages and playgrounds—videos that document his inventive clothing, his rise to the world of haute couture (though he rejected that mantle), and the gorgeous, meticulous creations of his that became synonymous with capital-F Fashion. Six weeks later, Holzemer got a hand-written note from Margiela, agreeing to collaborate on a documentary. Der "Hollywood Reporter" nennt es "die beste Fashion Documentary des Jahrzehnts". That project ushered in an ongoing theme in Margiela’s clothing: common objects transformed into art. Gifts for Your Boss That Are Cute and Affordable, It's Been a Weird Year for 'The Bachelorette', Get in the Spirit By Streaming a Holiday Movie, Astrology Gifts for Your Horoscope-Obsessed Friend. Martin Margiela is famously anti-fame. He judiciously avoided the press, refusing to do interviews, be photographed, or even come out and take the customary bow at the end of his runway shows. The elusive Martin Margiela is starring in a new documentary By Anders Christian Madsen 6 April 2020 In the Martin Margiela documentary, Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, the fashion myth talks candidly for the first time about his 20 years in fashion, the ideas behind his ingenious work, and why he chose to remain anonymous. http://yoox.ly/1DBrzRt The exclusive documentary produced by YOOX Group and directed by New York filmmaker Alison Chernick. The film sheds light on the man behind the label, offering an intimate portrait of … The allegedly leaked documentary, Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, is currently scheduled to be released on streaming services April 10.The film explores the life, work and philosophy behind one of fashion's most elusive figures. VOGUE zeigt exklusiv den ersten Trailer zu Reiner Holzemers mit Spannung erwarteter Mode-Dokumentation "Martin Margiela: Mythos der Mode". Film-Tipps: 8 Dokumentationen über den Klimawandel, die wir uns unbedingt ansehen sollten. “I told my co-producer that I would love to try and get in touch with him, even though she said he never does interviews and, in the last 30 years, he had not allowed anyone to take his picture. Mehrere Gründe und Umstände machten das Unmögliche möglich. Belgian fashion designer famous for his eponymous fashion house in Paris. Martin Margiela is the Belgian-born avant-garde fashion designer sometimes described as the couture Banksy, because he has never publicly shown his face for … Did almost no press—save for a few interviews conducted via fax—and eschewed fame and celebrity it ’ s most figure... Sweaters ; wigs became coats ; waistcoats were born from porcelain ; even plastic... 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